1. When your washing machine doesn’t turn on, the first thing to check is the connection and the socket. Is it plugged in? Does the socket look damaged at all? Can another appliance get power from the same socket? It might not be a fault with the washing machine.

2. Check the standby switch on the machine once you’ve confirmed the power isn’t the problem. Does it depress normally? Does it stay depressed? Does it look broken? If so, replacing the power switch could do the job.

3. If the display panel is lit up and you can select programmes, but the cycles won’t start, the door latch might be to blame. This feature indicates to the interlock, and therefore to the machine, that it’s safe to move onto the next cycle. Unfortunately, if worn or broken, the machine won’t proceed with a wash. You can attempt to fix this yourself, but call a local tradesperson if you’re not keen on DIY.

4. – Another mechanical issue that could be at fault is the door interlock. This isn’t the spring that latches the door shut, but the electrical mechanism further inside that keeps the door shut while a wash is in process. Diagnosing and replacing this can be tricky, so it’s worth calling a professional in.

1. If your washing machine doesn’t drain the excess water, it will either be caused by a blockage or the pump is broken. You can check which is more likely by listening to the machine during a cycle. If you can hear the pump running, but the water is not draining, then it’s a blockage. If you can’t hear the pump, something’s wrong with it.

2. Whether it’s a coin, a loose sock or your house key that you lost last week, blockages are common in washing machines. So first things first, unplug the washing machine and lay down some towels – water will leak out. Next, inspect the pump filter, which is typically situated at the bottom of the machine and clear it of any debris.

3. Now, inspect the drain hose. Typically attached to the U-bend under the sink, the drain hose will be connected via a spigot. Unscrew this and empty the excess water from the hose into a bucket or sink. Look in the hose and the U-bend for blockages and remove if necessary.

4. If none of the above works, check the pump itself for small items of clothing or material that might have wrapped around the impeller. Nothing? The pump may just be broken and need replacing, or you could have an electrical fault. A technician can help with this.

1. You spend so much time using your washing machine to clean your clothes you forget that it might need a wash itself from time to time. Smells can come from a dirty door seal or a mould infested drum or detergent drawer.

2. But the first thing to check is the filter and the drain hose for any blockages. Put towels on the floor to soak any excess water and pull out the filter (normally placed at the bottom of the machine). Remove any material or debris.

3. Before checking the drain hose, grab a bucket because there could be a gush of water when you detach it from the U-bend under the sink. Inspect both the hose and the U-bend for anything that could be clogging it up.

4. Follow these five easy steps to prevent a smelly washing machine.

1. If your washing gets to the end of each cycle but refuses to spin, it could be down to something as simple as overloading your machine, causing it to become unbalanced. If you’ve jammed in too many heavy towels, for example, the weight can affect the sensors and shut off the machine. Re-balance the load and try again.

2. if it’s not a problem with overloading, it could be one of these issues giving you a washing machine that won’t spin:

3. Broken door latch or interlock – When the door closes fully, the latch will be secure, and that will signal to the interlock that the door is closed and it is safe to move on to the next step in the cycle – for example, the spin. The interlock will then ensure that the door stays shut while the wash progresses. If either is broken or worn away, then the washing machine will not get the green light to start spinning. You can check this by pressing the latch – if it doesn’t click, it’s broken. Also, look at the plastic parts around the door lock; if worn or corroded, the signal might not work.

4. Drive belt – Find out if the drive belt is the root of the problem by opening the door and trying to spin the drum. There should be some resistance – if the drum turns quickly, the belt might need replacing.

5. Drain block – If the drum cannot drain, the spin cycle will not begin. If you can still see water inside when the spin should be starting, this is a clear sign you need to check your pipes for a blockage. Other causes include a faulty drive motor or pump. If you’re still not sure of the reason, call in a professional to inspect your machine.

6. Need a giant washing machine so you can fit more in one wash? Check out our reviews of washing machines with extra-large drum capacity.

1. A washing machine that doesn’t clean your clothes is far from ideal. But it happens more often than you’d think. One of the most common reasons is a blocked detergent line/tray. If your detergent and softener cannot travel down towards your clothes then how can the washing machine wash properly? To add to this, if there is a blockage, eventually detergent, germs and even mould will build up and transfer onto your garments. This will also happen if the filter is clogged or the drainage pipe is blocked.

2. Other reasons might include:

   Overloading –if you try to squeeze too many items in one wash you could be left with no clean clothes at all. Overloading means the clothes cannot move around the machine, dirt can get trapped between items of clothing and it leaves little room for the detergent to disperse.

3. Using the wrong detergent–You can force the door to open if needed. Turn off the power from the plug first. Then, unscrew the top panel of the washing machine and using a flat-headed screwdriver reach down to the door clasp (it will be a metallic top in the centre of the lock mechanism). Push the tip either left or right and the door should release. Faulty interlock – The interlock is a mechanism further inside that keeps the door shut while a wash is in process. If this is damaged, the washing machine will not know the wash has stopped therefore won’t signal that the door can be opened. Diagnosing and replacing this can be tricky so it’s worth calling a professional in.

The possible causes include:

• Worn drum bearings

• Unbalanced washing machine feet

• Obstructions in the outer tub and inner drum (coins, etc.)

• Heavy wash loads

1. If your washing machine door refuses to lock then you first need to inspect the door and the handle – is there any visible damage that would mean the latch will not operate?

2. If the door looks fine, then the most likely culprit is a faulty door interlock. This can be repaired. Keen DIY’ers should find this process relatively simple but always check the instructions for your specific model.

3. One other, a slightly more difficult fix would be repairing the control board. If the interlock is fine but the control board is not connecting with it then the machine won’t know when to start. Calling in a professional to test this should be your next course of action.

1. There are lots of different reasons why a washing machine door might refuse to budge including:

2. Drainage – As with all washing machines, if the excess water cannot be drained away from the drum adequately, not only will the cycle stop but the door will also lock. If you can visibly see water left in the drum at the end of the wash then it’s likely you have a blockage in the drain hose or the pump. See above for how to drain water from your machine.

3. Door damage – If the door, handle or latch has any damage this could cause the machine to cease opening. Inspect your door before calling out the repair man.

4. You can force the door to open if needed. Turn off the power from the plug first. Then, unscrew the top panel of the washing machine and using a flat headed screw driver reach down to the door clasp (it will be a metallic top in the centre of the lock mechanism). Push the tip either left or right and the door should release.

5. Faulty interlock – The interlock is a mechanism further inside that keeps the door shut while a wash is in process. If this is damaged, the washing machine will not know the wash has stopped therefore won’t signal that the door can be opened. Diagnosing and replacing this can be tricky so it’s worth calling a professional in.